28 April 2015

兰寿生长几个时期





蘭壽的成長可以分為以下幾個期間:

一)魚苗的誕生和幼魚的成長

對於籣壽的飼養者來說,魚苗的誕生是那麼不歡心雀躍的事。當水溫達到15℃時,雄魚便尾隨追著雌魚,這個情況, 就是要產卵了。這時就把要產卵的雌魚和雄魚放入到已準備好的產卵池(用水草造成的魚巢,和水質乾淨的產卵池)內,讓他們自然產卵。

籣壽產卵活動的時間,通常在於清晨開始,於中午終止,因而令到飼養者都不知不覺地早起來。還有,如果飼養者在早上上班,導致沒有時間於午前去把魚卵取出,卵粒就會被產完卵的魚吃掉。因此,他們都會考慮人工產卵的方式。

種魚產卵結束,授精卵在水溫20度時,約3-4天後便會孵化。此時,受精卵和無受精卵都能清楚地區別出來。受精卵的顏色是無色透明的,而無受精卵的顏色是不透明白色的。經過數日後,卵內的小魚苗不斷地孵化出來。這個時候,一邊窥視產卵池,一邊數著孵化了多少條的小魚兒的不取狸的如意算盤倒有樂趣!!!

剛 孵出的小魚苗,會先黏在水草或缸壁缸底上。這時候,小魚苗的體形很細小,腹部有球形的卵黃嚢。在最初的2、3天,他們不吃東西,以卵黃嚢的營養為生。到了 第3天以後,卵黃嚢的營養吸收殆盡,他們才開始游泳,也才會找東西吃。初期的飼料,是些豐年蝦或是水蚤,不過,因現在的豐年蝦的質數都好好,所以大部份的 飼養者都採用豐年蝦來餵養魚苗。可是,豐年蝦內沒有包含消化酵素, 對於魚苗的成長都有些影響。同時,又因蘭壽的魚苗不能產生消化酵素,只能從餌中提取。因為這樣,前輩們充分地利用含有消化酵素的雞蛋黃,取煮熟的雞蛋黃, 用紗布包起來,放在盛有新水的水容器中揉擠,使清水呈黃色的蛋黃水。然後將這蛋黃水輕輕潑洒在魚巢周圍及池(缸)壁上,以便讓魚苗覓食。他們能會把含有消 化酵素的東西植入初期的飼料內,來餵養魚苗,真想不到他們偶然也很有智慧。


二) 幼魚期 (黑仔期)

孵化 後,初期只吃著豐年蝦作飼料的幼魚,便長大得很快,當尾巴開始張開, 就可以作第一次揀選。揀選是根據孵化後尾巴的數目。不過,通常在第一次揀選時, 有10分之一左右會被淘汰。這個時候要注意的是: 魚苗約有木筷子前頭2cm以下,就應注意他們兩鰓是否像有不一樣的所謂麻疹鰓病(即兩鰓差異病)。要預防麻疹鰓病,把揀選出來合格的魚苗,放入有0.5% 的食鹽水池內,經過數次淘汰後, 安然無恙安的魚苗才渡過安全期。一個多月後, 蘭壽仔的背面開始變得有形態。對於蘭壽愛好者來說,雖在這個幼魚期要親手治療魚仔,但是,不是最快樂的時間吧!!!!


三) 脫變期

將 近梅雨期結束,4月中旬左右,是繁殖魚仔的脫變期的開始。籣壽的一生脫變現象,就是最消耗體能的時期,而且,也是對抗病能力的衰弱時期。為此,飼養者要加 強魚病防治的工作,勤換水,注視魚仔有否吃得過多,盡量避免在臉盤的容器觀賞魚兒,靜靜地看守著他們,直到脫變期結束。


四) 剛一歲魚(當歲期)

在可喜可悲的脫變期結束,蘭壽在盛夏裡一起地成長。所謂當歲魚是魚兒成長到合適的體形,其生殖器已發育完整。即使是本源紅,即使是印花布,出來的顏色是淺色的伴隨著發達的肉瘤,都集中一班飼養者的讚賞和擁護。


五) 二歲.親魚期

當 成長到二歲的時候, 就要雖根據其增長的差異來選擇好的魚種,大的魚可有成三歲魚的大小。可是,雖說長大得很大,如在腹腔內附著過厚的脂肪的話,在下年的產卵活動時, 就會影響到雌魚的正常排卵,什至會造成難產,所以過肥的金魚不宜選作為親魚,而過瘦的魚種,也不宜留作親魚,因它們多數在營養不良的環境中生活,身體必體 弱多病,生殖系統的發育也受影響。要繁殖長壽的親魚,最理想的是選2歲的金魚,肥瘦適中的健康魚作留種親魚, 所以留下二歲的金魚來飼養是最大的關鍵。年齡4歲以上的,生殖機能已開始衰退。特別是體形較大的親魚,行動緩慢,故其受精率、孵化率均也相應明顯降低。剛滿一歲的金魚,其生殖器雖己發育完整,但是,其品種特征還未完全發育, 遺傳基因也不未完全稳定,產卵偏遲,卵量較少,因此,這2種魚最好不作主要留種的親魚。

16 April 2015

论国寿体型与栽头之间的关系



其实栽头,无非就是一个简单的力学原理,鱼整体重心的问题。金鱼身体的一些特征为金鱼的栽头,或者将来性栽头埋下了伏笔。
       先从头说起。头部是杠杆的一端的末梢部分(把鱼的中心位置看做杠杆的支点)相对来说,头瘤越大的鱼,栽头的几率越高,且头大的鱼,头瘤的颗粒都是很粗大的 颗粒,这种大颗粒的头瘤相对于致密的头瘤来说,是比较容易发大的,一旦头瘤发起来,头瘤变会变得松弛,从而散掉。谈句与栽头无关但是与大头瘤有关的问题, 就是说,头瘤发育强大的兰寿,身形绝大部分都是背的宽度很窄的,意思也就是说,大头的鱼,绝大部分,很难养到粗壮。因为营养都跑到头上去了。
       身形,最早接触兰寿的时候,我也是觉得短身的很Q,很可爱,但是当福州跑的多了,与养鱼人之间的沟通多了,才懂得,短身是兰寿必须早一些卖掉的,其原因主 要有2点。1短身的鱼,生长速度缓慢,同一池的兰寿,短身的跟中长身的吃一样的多,但是养到后期,中长身的当年养到14厘米,短身的也就是12厘米,渔场 的鱼,百分之95以上都是按公分卖的,这种短身的相对于中长身的来说,增值太慢了,所以早期一般的都把短身卖掉了。且短身的鱼,普遍的头要比中身中长身的 大很多,由于杠杆的原理,这种头部重量太大的鱼是将来一定要栽头的(也许极个别的会有意外,但是渔场不会为了这微乎其微的意外而留养短身大头的鱼)真正的 好身形,还是中长身。能养大,能养粗。相对来说载头率要低很多。
       背,相对来说梳子背的鱼,一般重心都在背的最高点,这样的重心相对于鱼来说,是最容易掌握平衡的。也是栽头率最低的背型。背前段过于的直,或者后端收的太高,这样的鱼载头的比例会大很多。尤其背和尾的夹角的地方收的很高的鱼,基本都是要栽头的。
       肚子,肯定是肚子相对来说要靠后,要饱满的鱼,载头率低,同样也是杠杆的原理。哪怕肚子再靠后,能把鱼头压得翘起来的也是寥寥无几,非常罕见,所以选择兰 寿的时候,尽量的选择一些肚子靠后,且肚子饱满的。当然,个别的鱼也会有肚子靠前,但是不载头的,且还是2年鱼,这种重心靠前的鱼,很难把肚子撑起来。养 到后期,头肯定要一年比一年大,最终还是逃不掉载头的命运。
       尾。尾巴厚,且宽的兰寿是大鱼的坯子,张力100-150度算是中规中矩的尾巴,一旦尾巴的张力过强,或者尾肩和尾先一样的硬(飞机尾)这种尾巴,很难找 到能压住水的,也是严重载头,甚至会引起身体严重失衡,肚子向上。背与尾心的夹角,90度上下浮动10度为宜。角度太小,压不住水容易载头,角度太大,不 美观。
       真正玩到一定层次的发烧级玩家所选鱼的基本要求:1头瘤要紧凑,颗粒致密。 2目距要宽。3背要宽,尾桶要粗。4尾要有张力,但是张力不可过强。尾质地要厚,尾叶相对来说要宽。5中长身,梳子背。6肚子靠后。7背和尾的角度90度左右。宁大勿小。
       兰寿选择的十不要。1头太大的不要,2头瘤颗粒大的不要 3背前平后急收的不要 4尾巴太软的不要 5尾跟处过高的不要 6尾巴张力近乎于180度的不要 7尾肩和尾先都是硬的不要 8游动起来,一扭一扭跑的很慢的不要。9尾桶太细的不要 10目距太近的不要。
       上述的内容是给有足够大空间,或者非常希望把鱼养大,养好的朋友参考下。如果只是个一米的小鱼缸,也就没必要这么多讲究,只需要选择自己喜欢的,现阶段不载头的就可以了。

08 April 2015

Culturing Tubifex and Blackworms

Source: dr.tran


I was asked by another forum to write about how I cultured these worms. I didn't want it to be limited to just one forum so I hope this information can help someone here too.

I am sorry if this is not the right place to put it. But its was the closest I can get to inverts

Anyway I have been culturing blackworms and tubifex worms for years and its been a long journey to learn to culture them when I first started, there wasn't much information let alone on the web about culturing them at home. I guess it wasn't worth it.

And after all this, I don't think worth all the work to do. However, I have no local access anymore to blackworms or tubifex so I have no choice but to.

After I found out my LFS was closing down and it was the only one selling any live foods, I scrambled and tried so many methods to culture them. I only had a month to do so.

So I learned from trial and error. First step is to keep them alive. Lucky from years of buying, I learned the can be kept in the fridge. Blackworms longer than tubifex. As long as the water is clean and declorinated, it can surive for at least a week.

Blackworms much longer. My record was 1 month 2 weeks. Not sure if it could go any longer, my fish needed to eat.

So I got lots of worms from my LFS before the closed and I got to work. I couldn't culture any in the fridge so i kept them in a fish bowl.

Lesson 1: Do not let the temp reach higher than 80 or you may have a massive die off. It seems best around 75 degrees or so. In the summer time, find a cool area in the house. I like to place them in a bucket, and put it in my backyard underneth a tree. The shade keeps them cool.

Lesson 2: Only keep them in cycled containers. It doesn't matter if you are keeping them in a 10 gal tank or a rubbermaid but it must be cycled if it is placed in room temperture. I learned that the hard way many times over. Even in temporay holding trays.

So now that we know the general guide lines of keeping them alive, lets move on to housing and care.

Lesson 3: Always change the water. The water must be changed daily. at least once every 2 days. Every day to be better. I change about 30 percent for blackworms and 20 percent for tubifex. More if the water looks or smells bad. You will smell it if the culture goes bad. I found that the drip aclimator is the best for water changes and has become a permenent fixture in my worm tanks. Just let it siphon out the amount and pour in old aquarium water.

Lesson 4. Blackworms like the water to be shallow. They can live in deeper water but they always seem to do best in shallow water. No more than 5 inches. For tubifex it doesn't seem to matter. Also they can be kept in small containers but I find 5 gallon tanks to be the best. The water quality is more stable in there than a rubbermaid. Also I keep one major culture going and a few smaller ones for insurance.

Lesson 5. What is the medium to keep them in? That is a hard question to answer. It is all about how much labor you want to put in. At first, I put gravel on the bottom because I always saw that the tubifex always surived in there in my main tanks. Which always made me angry to see a carpet of worms in your main tanks. Although you can keep them like that, the method of harvesting becomes very very hard. Unless you let there be a huge out break, its going to be hard to seperate the gravel and the worms. The same goes for blackworms. I tried newspaper or other paper substrate but can you imgine the work to clean the worms? Not a good idea.

The best substrate so far for me, is a mixture of gravel and java moss. Yes thats right, java. It eats up the nitrates and helps keep the water quality good. Also the worms like to travel through it. I harvest them with a pipet. Its a great investment if you plan to do this for a while. I just put them in a brine shrimp net and rinse. I also use the pipet to feed them. My endlers go crazy for them and I get to see the health of each one closely.

Now the hard part is done. All you need now is to feed them.

Lesson 6: What to feed them? I use to keep fry in the worm tanks so that the left over food feeds the worm. Also they seem to like fish poop. I liked doing that so nothing is wasted and I always strive to be fully independant of all means. However, once in a while, I would have a massive die off and the water would be so bad my fry would die. Lately I haven't have that problem. I believe it may have been a chain reaction of one worm dieing and spiking the amonia to kill the rest of the population. Then I leaned something, THEY EAT DEAD FISHES! So they have become my recycling center, when ever I have a fish that died from old age, I throw it in there. However, if it was a sick fish, then I always flush. Never compermise the other fishes.

Over the years I learned that it is best to feed them sinking food. I have a ton of extra guppy pellets that turned out to be too large for my endlers. So I use that to feed my worms. I also sometimes throw in cucumbers and other vegetables that was going to be tossed out anyway. Basically they can eat just about anything thats organic as long it doesn't break up very much. This is to perseve the water quality.

Lesson 7: Have patience. You have to let the population grow to a good size before harvesting. This is because the population needs to be at a cetain age before having a stable amount of offspring and become self sustabable. It depends on the tempeture amoung other conditions but I say 3 weeks should be an average time. Then just harvest some for your fishes.

A few last things,

They don't need light and I only use sunshine for the java moss to grow.

There is concern about parasites and diseases from tubifex, I was lucky to have a clean culture from the LFS free of disease and hitchikers. So if you plan on feeding your fishes long term on tubifex or blackworms, it is a good idea to culture your own so you know its 100% safe.

2 years ago, I started seeing them in Petland. I was tempted to buy and stop culturing but my biggest reason is I don't know how good they are. Plus from culturing, I have some very healthy worms which is reflected on my fishes.

I feed my endlers tubifex regularly and they grow very fast with it. I chop it up and feed it to the fry. But they colors don't show up as fast on just tubifex. I have no confirmation on other fishes but I believe it is the same. So I feed them a combination of perpared foods with lots of plant and animal matter for coloration. The tubifex boost there size quickly.

Heathy blackworms are great for larger fishes. They always love a treat and their health becomes wounderful. They have never been more healthy since I have been feeding them live foods.

I learned all these from many years of mistakes. I hope this may help anyone out there thinking of starting there own worm cultures.